There is something unique about a European beer that lets you know it is imported and crafted with ancient technique and tested recipes. Victory is the best American brewery I've come across so far at fooling the tastebuds. Their German training shines through again with this late winter doppelbock, St. Victorious.
The label's story references the monks of St Francis of Paula, giving a nod to the original doppelbock, Paulaner's Salvator. That and the use of German malts infuse this brew with tradition and heritage worthy of the brew that sustained those holy men through the fasts of their faith. St Victorious himself maybe a brew-tested time traveler, sampling the rich malty lagers throughout history. With his monk-style hair dickey gelled up into a little "bro-hawk" in the front and rockin' a sweet button-down vestment, this brother looks wise to the pretenders (and frankly, also looks half-shot in the butt).
The German malts definitely shine through as the sweetness is tempered with just a bit of funkiness. They present a bit of a harder edge than the normal American double bocks. Really good versions include Sam Adams Imperial Series Double Bock and Great Divide Hibernation. St. Victorious' malt choice and hop profile provide a little levity and dryness to the mix, giving this winter warmer a bit more of a glass-clinking "Cheers" vibe to the field. St. Victorious is malty and rich with a complexity that is slightly pungent. It pours dark caramel and has virtually no head, but none is necessary for a doppelbock to do its magic. A few of these in the right pub and you may wake up on the stone floor of a German monastery sometime in the seventeenth century. Would that really be so bad?
Victory St. Victorious Doppelbock:
Representation: 1.0
Accessibility: .90
Style: .99
Personal Preference: .95
Total Score: 3.84 Flags
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